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发布时间：2023/3/31 12:10:00
I broaden the front part of the hull so there it could may be possible to drive it also with an air propeller. To day I tested the air propeller but I had only a 2 cells lipo and that wasn't enough to make really speed. The powerful inboard outrunner was driven with 4 cells lipo and made the boat by far much faster. Update 07.31.2015 To day I tested the air propeller with another motor (STORM 1806 2300kv) and with a 4 cells lipo. Its much faster now: But it isn't optimized yet. Full throttle pushes the bow down and breaks the speed. Attention Use the propeller mount with the protection ring only in still air, otherwise it will capsize for sure! That's why I designed the slim veion "propeller mount slim".
The hull coists of 4 parts, the longest is 180mm, or 140 mm if you take another combination. Anyway, I uploaded the complete hull, so you can slice it in pieces as long as you like. This is very easy to do with netfabb or another program. If you have difficulties, I can do it for you, but the smallest possible part is 130mm.
Update 08.24.2015 The third try was made with two propelle HtIEF8
Update 09.25.2015 A new video from a boat prited in PET by abcona:
Update 12.20.2015 Uploaded sterntube test 7.4mm This is for a test print if you want to use a sterntube with 6mm OD.
Update 01.03.2016 I added "hull back 190". You can still use a part of the interface. Just cut off about 25mm of the more norrow part of the interface. So you don't need to print the "hull back 140" and the "hull middle 50".
Update 04.08.2016 "Nanafalke" did split the hull front 180 in two pieces (hull_front_40 and hull front 140) for smaller printe. The parts are now available for download. Thank you Sami
Update 06.11.2016 I uploaded hull_front_270
Update Oct 24, 2016 I uploaded hull_bow_129 and deleted hull_front _40
So if you can only print up to 140mm you can use this combination: hull bow 129 hull front 140 hull middle 50 hull back 140
Update Nov 7, 2016 I uploaded hull_front_140_mod and deleted hull_front_140
ItructioPrinting Hull: The best is, if you print it with spiral vase methode. Then you will get a neat surface without any noses from layer change. I printed with layer hight: 0.3 mm and width: 0.6 mm. Anyway, you have to print it hollow with one perimeter otherwise it will not fit iide the interface part. The traom is 2.1 mm thick, that mea, you need at least 7 solid laye each 0,3 mm high.
Decks: spiral vase layer height: 0.3 mm width: 0.5 mm
Hull interface: spiral vase layer height: 0.3 mm width: 0.5 - 0,6 mm The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening. In case it is not going through the middle hull part, so you have to cut it also across and put it in from both sides. I prefer solids itead of parts with walls, even if it requires some rework, because they are easy to slice with every slicer program.
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue. Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.
Holes in support The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph) Don't use a drill, it will damage the material. The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph) Don't use a drill, it will damage the material! The holes are not designed because holes are impossible to print in spiral vase mode.
Motor Robbe Roxxy BL Outrunner 2834/8 Unfortunately, the Roxxy motor is not available anymore. In principle you can take every motor between 26 mm and 28 mm diameter, and the screw holes must be on the shaft side. It should not have more than 1100kv, otherwise the motor may become hot because it is not cooled by water or airflow of a propeller.
The most comparable to my motor I could find on HobbyKing , is this one: Maybe also the smaller one could do it, though not so fast:
Anyway, if you have a motor already, just give me the measurements and I will look if I can modify the motor mount.
Air propeller motor STORM 1806 2300kv m-1806-2300kv-4s-LiPo-flyingfolk-outrunner-brushless-motor and
Controller RockAmp 5A XBEC
Receiver OrangeRx R615 DSM2
Servo TGY-R5180MG
Sterntube 4/3 mm, 120 mm long
Driving shaft: 3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.
Propeller Diameter 35 mm M4 propelle need a bushing from M4 to M3. Or you make an adapter as in drawing,
Overall weight With inboard motor: 570g With 1 air propeller: 425g With 2 air propeller: 500g
Coupling The easiest way is to screw the printed coupling with M2 screws. But it holds not very long. A better solution is to use rubber shock absorber like this: Additional you need two 8 mm aluminium rods 15 mm long. In this rods you drill a hole from the one side and cut a thread M4 from the other side. The hole must be for one the diameter of the motor shaft (3.75mm) and for the other the diameter of the propeller shaft (3.0mm). You can easiely drill a centered hole if you clamp the drill in a vice and the aluminium rod in a column drill. Each rod needs two cross bore M2 to clamp the shaft. I uploaded photographs of the coupling now.
The hull coists of 4 parts, the longest is 180mm, or 140 mm if you take another combination. Anyway, I uploaded the complete hull, so you can slice it in pieces as long as you like. This is very easy to do with netfabb or another program. If you have difficulties, I can do it for you, but the smallest possible part is 130mm.
Update 08.24.2015 The third try was made with two propelle HtIEF8
Update 09.25.2015 A new video from a boat prited in PET by abcona:
Update 12.20.2015 Uploaded sterntube test 7.4mm This is for a test print if you want to use a sterntube with 6mm OD.
Update 01.03.2016 I added "hull back 190". You can still use a part of the interface. Just cut off about 25mm of the more norrow part of the interface. So you don't need to print the "hull back 140" and the "hull middle 50".
Update 04.08.2016 "Nanafalke" did split the hull front 180 in two pieces (hull_front_40 and hull front 140) for smaller printe. The parts are now available for download. Thank you Sami
Update 06.11.2016 I uploaded hull_front_270
Update Oct 24, 2016 I uploaded hull_bow_129 and deleted hull_front _40
So if you can only print up to 140mm you can use this combination: hull bow 129 hull front 140 hull middle 50 hull back 140
Update Nov 7, 2016 I uploaded hull_front_140_mod and deleted hull_front_140
ItructioPrinting Hull: The best is, if you print it with spiral vase methode. Then you will get a neat surface without any noses from layer change. I printed with layer hight: 0.3 mm and width: 0.6 mm. Anyway, you have to print it hollow with one perimeter otherwise it will not fit iide the interface part. The traom is 2.1 mm thick, that mea, you need at least 7 solid laye each 0,3 mm high.
Decks: spiral vase layer height: 0.3 mm width: 0.5 mm
Hull interface: spiral vase layer height: 0.3 mm width: 0.5 - 0,6 mm The solid part of the hull interface is to print in spiral vase mode. You will get a closed ring profile. Afterwards cut off the deck opening. In case it is not going through the middle hull part, so you have to cut it also across and put it in from both sides. I prefer solids itead of parts with walls, even if it requires some rework, because they are easy to slice with every slicer program.
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in the gap of each hull part. In this way the the hull parts are aligned and easy to glue. Before gluing you should mask the edges of the hulls with tape to keep them clean from glue.
Holes in support The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph) Don't use a drill, it will damage the material. The holes in the support to fasten the motor mount must be melted out by a slightly modified bowed soldering bolt ( as shown in the photograph) Don't use a drill, it will damage the material! The holes are not designed because holes are impossible to print in spiral vase mode.
Motor Robbe Roxxy BL Outrunner 2834/8 Unfortunately, the Roxxy motor is not available anymore. In principle you can take every motor between 26 mm and 28 mm diameter, and the screw holes must be on the shaft side. It should not have more than 1100kv, otherwise the motor may become hot because it is not cooled by water or airflow of a propeller.
The most comparable to my motor I could find on HobbyKing , is this one: Maybe also the smaller one could do it, though not so fast:
Anyway, if you have a motor already, just give me the measurements and I will look if I can modify the motor mount.
Air propeller motor STORM 1806 2300kv m-1806-2300kv-4s-LiPo-flyingfolk-outrunner-brushless-motor and
Controller RockAmp 5A XBEC
Receiver OrangeRx R615 DSM2
Servo TGY-R5180MG
Sterntube 4/3 mm, 120 mm long
Driving shaft: 3 mm rod 160 mm long with 11 mm M3 thread on one end.
Propeller Diameter 35 mm M4 propelle need a bushing from M4 to M3. Or you make an adapter as in drawing,
Overall weight With inboard motor: 570g With 1 air propeller: 425g With 2 air propeller: 500g
Coupling The easiest way is to screw the printed coupling with M2 screws. But it holds not very long. A better solution is to use rubber shock absorber like this: Additional you need two 8 mm aluminium rods 15 mm long. In this rods you drill a hole from the one side and cut a thread M4 from the other side. The hole must be for one the diameter of the motor shaft (3.75mm) and for the other the diameter of the propeller shaft (3.0mm). You can easiely drill a centered hole if you clamp the drill in a vice and the aluminium rod in a column drill. Each rod needs two cross bore M2 to clamp the shaft. I uploaded photographs of the coupling now.
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