模型说明
Here is my minimalistic CR10's hotend cooling mod. It uses the stock part cooling fan and also the original 40mm fan which I have replaced of coue with Noctua's. Airflow has been tested and can be seen on one of the pictures.
I have used 4mm longer screws to hold the hotend in place. The fan shroud can be printed without supports. I printed the shroud on it's face and the fila cooler on it's back with touching build supports.
I suggest pre-drilling the holes with a 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm drill. After that you can just screw in the screws
In addition I have utilized a microswitch from an old PC mouse for "semi-automatic" bed leveling. The switch is wired in series with the z-endstop and for it to work NC pin needs to be used. The probe mount is a tight fit and I recommend a bit of filing to get it to slide in and out as one likes. Can't be too loose though.
I am using Octoprint and Bed Level Visualizer: https:plugi.octoprint.org/plugibedlevelvisualize
I have the stock Creality 1.1.2 board running Marlin 1.1.9.
In Marlin I have uncommented:
define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
You have to disable SD support for the bed leveling to fit onto the stock 1284 chip.
In the Bed Level Visualizer I'm using custom code to measure the beds height:
G28 XY ;home x- and y-axis
G1 X44 Y10 F3000 ;move to the fit corner of the table
G28 Z ;home z axis
G29 ;perform bed leveling
G1 X150 Y150 F6000 ;move to the center of the plate just because I want it to :)
M18 ;disable steppe
M500 ;save the bed leveling data to EEPROM
In my slicer I have put into the starting code after G28 command: M420 S1 ;turn on bed leveling
This is due to the G28 command disabling auto bed leveling. This behaviour could also be changed in Marlin by uncommenting the line: define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
I suggest setting the front left corner to the correct height with the "paper method" beforehand to avoid the nozzle hitting the bed once the printer homes itself on the original z-endstop. After that you can measure the bed with the probe and do the leveling accordingly.
I have used 4mm longer screws to hold the hotend in place. The fan shroud can be printed without supports. I printed the shroud on it's face and the fila cooler on it's back with touching build supports.
I suggest pre-drilling the holes with a 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm drill. After that you can just screw in the screws
In addition I have utilized a microswitch from an old PC mouse for "semi-automatic" bed leveling. The switch is wired in series with the z-endstop and for it to work NC pin needs to be used. The probe mount is a tight fit and I recommend a bit of filing to get it to slide in and out as one likes. Can't be too loose though.
I am using Octoprint and Bed Level Visualizer: https:plugi.octoprint.org/plugibedlevelvisualize
I have the stock Creality 1.1.2 board running Marlin 1.1.9.
In Marlin I have uncommented:
define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
You have to disable SD support for the bed leveling to fit onto the stock 1284 chip.
In the Bed Level Visualizer I'm using custom code to measure the beds height:
G28 XY ;home x- and y-axis
G1 X44 Y10 F3000 ;move to the fit corner of the table
G28 Z ;home z axis
G29 ;perform bed leveling
G1 X150 Y150 F6000 ;move to the center of the plate just because I want it to :)
M18 ;disable steppe
M500 ;save the bed leveling data to EEPROM
In my slicer I have put into the starting code after G28 command: M420 S1 ;turn on bed leveling
This is due to the G28 command disabling auto bed leveling. This behaviour could also be changed in Marlin by uncommenting the line: define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
I suggest setting the front left corner to the correct height with the "paper method" beforehand to avoid the nozzle hitting the bed once the printer homes itself on the original z-endstop. After that you can measure the bed with the probe and do the leveling accordingly.
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